Throughout London Fashion Week Mens, one of the most anticipated shows was most definitely Cottweiler; with buyers and press turning up in swathes to see what the contemporary brain child of Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty had to offer for SS19.
Held at Rambert school of Ballet and Contemporary Dance, we couldn’t help but notice the similarity between the space seating layout, and the invitiation which featured a flower. Guests were seated all facing inwards with the runway set in between rows, drawing focus to the centre of the room.
The show began with a repeat of a familiar bible quote taken from 2nd Timothy 1:7 (The word has not given you the spirit of fear; but of power, and of love, and of a sound mind) which when analysed in the context of the show… made perfect sense.
We believe, cottweiler used this show to depict the growth of a human, taking them from fear to a sound mind. The pieces begin in all-black ensembles, featuring fairly structured apparel in the form of jackets and shirts. Interestingly the models were accessorized with what appeared to be household/material goods such as LCD screens and yoga mats.
The brand quickly introduced traditionally feminine cuts to some of the pieces such as cropped turtle necks and T-shirts. The change of colour palette to lilac and more free flowing clothing such as nylon shorts added to the representation of freedom. Whilst the colour pallete may not be traditionally aligned to menswear it breaks the status quo and is a refreshing addition to a summer wardrobe.
Finally the outer part of the “flower” introduced a soothing canary yellow and gold theme. A scheme currently being popularised in streetwear culture. Cottweiler uses a range of materials and also experiment with sheer/translucent pieces. Each outfit is paired with more fitting accesories such as side bags as well as footwear by Reebok. This final collection appears to be the most streetwear appropriate thanks to its blend of yellow and nude. When accompanied by the upbeat tempo of the soundtrack it makes for a light functional summer athletic vibe.
Cottweiler pushed through the barriers of what is typically categorised as menswear, to deliver a symbolic presentation of growth from a both a personal and creative perspective. A huge well done to the guys and thank you to Ritual Projects for the hospitality.